Trips: Charleston (Day 1)

Saturday, January 15

For a moment I didn't think Charleston was going to happen.  Earlier in the week, I had been trapped due to the Atlanta ice storm.  Two nights prior to the trip, I witnessed three car accidents in the first five minutes of driving on Thursday night and, much to my chagrin, I had to abort my plans to see The Walkman at the Variety.  But I made the drive on Saturday morning.  Early.  I had arrived in Charleston 10 AM Saturday morning.  But where to deposit my car?  Surely, I needed a good landmark.  I parked at a garage at King & Queen Streets.  Done. 

Hyman's ** - I think it's a tourist trap.  But I was starving, Hominy Grill was on the agenda for Sunday morning, and well, it was right there.  Plus, several of my co-workers had recommended the place, so I wanted to check it out.  Okay, the place was a bit disorganized.  The first person who greeted me didn't say "Hello" but said "5-0-2."  Somehow the code led me to my seat.  But at least from that moment on, the hospitality started to show.  The she crab was delicious and made me realize I was glad to be on the coast again.  (When I think of Atlanta, soup or seafood doesn't come to mind.)  The shrimp po'boy was generous (I counted 26 pieces of shrimp) and delicious, though plain.  It was missing something ... then I added their brand of cajun mayo.  I knew I had made the right decision coming to Charleston for a quick culinary escape. 

I needed to go walk off the shrimp.  I picturesque stroll took me to the Waterfront, down to the Battery, through the neighborhood south of Broad, and even a quick tour through the Nathaniel Russell House (this is worth the visit just to see the architectural impressive self-supportive spiral staircase).  A relaxing walk through a picturesque and beautiful city.  And it's the dead of winter.   

I met up with Joel and Christy and made a trip to visit Walter, Alison, & Maybelle.  In other words: good company.  Nothing like good conversation, catching up, a long walk (I was particularly jealous of little Maybelle in her red wagon; I need one of those) to work up an appetite.  I was excited for dinner.  Plus, having watched Maybelle splash herself full of yogurt in the purest act of joy while eating, I was eager to attack my next meal.  

FIG (Food Is Good) **** - Four stars for the title alone.  Though a high-quality restaurant, it was a very relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.  I was impressed by our waitress who was incredibly knowledgeable.  She enthusiastically countered every question from my culinary mentors, my brother and sister-in-law.  What's not to like?  The lobster bisque was near perfect.  But the others were delectable as well.  I can still taste the beef tartare, oysters, ricotta gnocchi with lamb, and sunchokes.  Joel noted the non-descript description of the fish stew, a suggestion of seasonality and the impromptu nature of its preparation, which seemed exciting; the menu does in fact change daily.  I wasn't disappointed: I wanted to cheer and squeal with each new delicious seafood item I fished out of the pot, though, honestly, I could have been happy with the broth alone.  I had never tasted the triggerfish.  That was excellent and I did prefer it to the tilefish and steak.  But honestly, I would've been content with any dish.  Was it the food?  Was it the company?  It has been a while where I've had a dinner where there was so much genuine excitement in every aspect of the dinner: the service, variety, sharing, each and every dish, and the conversation that accompanied it all.  But that's why my rating system is so oddly vague.  What it boils down to is that, even two days later, it was a memorable night.  As simple as that.  And I don't think it's a coincidence either.  FIG is the real deal.  

Needless to say, it was at least a two-hour dinner affair.  I was capable of walking home and passing out.  And that's exactly what happened.